Insulation Services
Craftsmen Home Improvements, Inc. specializes in re-insulating existing homes, diagnostic testing for air leakage and infrared camera testing. Adding wall and attic insulation is an inexpensive and often overlooked improvement you can make to your home that will pay for itself year after year on your energy bill.
Today, nearly 60% of existing homes in the US are not insulated properly. A well insulated home has many benefits to the homeowner. Besides reducing energy costs, it also allows for even temperature distribution within the home, it provides better moisture control, has potential for increased resale value, and contributes to a quieter more environmentally friendly living area.
Blown-in Cellulose Insulation
Cellulose insulation is manufactured from recycled paper. It is non-toxic, and will not decay or contribute to mold growth. Blown-in Cellulose can be installed in both new and existing attics and walls, as well as garages, crawl spaces, pole buildings etc. It is considered "green" as it is made from recycled newspaper and requires less energy to manufacture than Fiberglass insulation. Cellulose is chemically treated to resist fire, insects, and mold.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I have enough?
No matter what kind of insulation you currently have in your attic, one quick way to determine if you need more is to look across the span of your attic. If your insulation is just level with or below your floor joists (i.e., you can easily see your joists), you should add more. If you cannot see any of the floor joists because the insulation is well above them, you probably have enough and adding more may not be cost-effective. It is important that the insulation be evenly distributed with no low spots; sometimes there is enough insulation in the middle of the attic and very little along the eaves. If your attic insulation covers your joists and is distributed evenly, you probably have enough.
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How Much Should I Add?
Insulation levels are specified by R-Value. R-Value is a measure of insulation's ability to resist heat flow. The higher the R-Value, the better the thermal performance of the insulation. The recommended level for most attics is to insulate to R-38 or about 10 to 14 inches, depending on insulation type.
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Won't that much insulation block my eave vents?
It can if not properly dealt with. Eave venting is critical to your homes well being. Lack of eave venting can cause ice dams, roof deterioration, insulation degradation, roof deck rot, and mold growth. That is why a professional in home estimate/evaluation is recommended.
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How do I know if my home needs insulation?
You can benefit from re-insulating your existing home if you experience any of the following: ice dams, drafty walls, high heating/cooling bills, moisture in your attic, or if your furnace or A/C unit runs constantly.
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Do I have to add the same type of Insulation that I currently have?
When adding additional insulation, you do not have to use the same type of insulation that currently exists in your attic. You can add loose fill on top of fiberglass batts or blankets, and vice-versa. If you use fiberglass over loose fill, make sure the fiberglass batt has no paper or foil backing; it needs to be "unfaced." If you choose to add loose fill, it may be wise to hire a professional, as the application requires the use of a blowing machine, although some home improvement stores offer rentals of this machine.
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Do I need to remove the existing insulation in my attic/sidewalls before my home can be re-insulated?
No. Even if you have moisture in your attic, once all bypasses are sealed (and/or your roof repaired by a qualified contractor, if necessary) cellulose is blown directly over the existing insulation. The existing insulation will dry once the cause of the moisture is stopped. Adding new cellulose insulation on top of existing fiberglass insulation is called "capping". If you have some insulation in your sidewalls, cellulose can usually still be forced in with the dense-pack method to achieve the desired R-factor.
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What is an ice dam?
An ice dam is created under winter conditions when heated air leaks through attic bypasses into an unheated attic. This creates warm areas on the roof and melts the underside of the snow that has accumulated on your roof. The melted snow flows down the roof until it reaches a cold spot, such as the eaves, where it refreezes, forming a dam.
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What is the best long-term solution to ice dams?
First and foremost, attic bypasses must be sealed. Then extra cellulose is blown into your attic, and ventilation added if necessary.
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What is an attic bypass?
Bypasses are hidden air passageways that lead from the heated space into the attic. Because warm air rises, it continuously moves up the bypasses and escapes into the attic. Common attic bypasses are located around chimneys, ceiling light fixtures, heating ducts, kitchen and bath exhaust fans, plumbing, electrical wires, dropped ceilings and soffits. Please see Bypass Sealing.
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Why should I choose cellulose instead of fiberglass insulation?
Cellulose is a recycled paper product that is chemically treated to be fire retardant and mold/mildew resistant. It does not loose its R-value when the temperature changes and it is a totally non-toxic product. Please see Cellulose vs. Fiberglass.
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What is R-value?
A materials resistance to heat flow is called its Resistance-value or better known as R-value. Having high R-value insulation installed in the cavities of your home slows the flow of heat through walls, floors and ceilings. The higher the R-value, the more effective the insulation. Dense packed cellulose has an R-value of 3.8 per inch.
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